A Post-Helene Guide to Playing, Eating, and Staying in Haywood County, NC

There I was in Haywood County, a corner of western North Carolina that took some of the worst hits from Helene just seven months earlier. Now, the storm-carved scars were largely hidden beneath spring wildflowers and rain-fed mountain forests. Over my five days in this five-town county — picking strawberries at once-flooded u-pick farms, following fir-scented trails off the newly reopened sections of the Blue Ridge Parkway, and sipping craft beer on the banks of a river that had forced so many neighbors to relocate — I didn’t just see recovery. I saw revival. I saw the kind of comeback only a place with a fiercely tight-knit community like Haywood County’s could create.

I may have visited in the spring when this landscape looks most alive, when blooms blanket the valleys and waterfalls run strong, but Haywood County is a year-round destination. Come in summer for hiking, festivals, and fireflies; in fall for the leaf-peeping drives along the Blue Ridge Parkway; or in winter for cozy cabin stays and Cataloochee ski runs. Whether your time is spent foraging ramps and dandelions in the forest, sipping herbal mocktails downtown, or filling your plate at a mountaintop BBQ with live bluegrass in the background, one thing’s certain: Haywood County isn’t just bouncing back — it’s inviting travelers in.

Things to do in Haywood County

Shop and stroll in downtown Waynesville

Waynesville’s walkable downtown blends small-town charm with a creative, slightly boho edge. Locally owned shops line Main Street, its side avenues, and the Frog Level District nearby. They range from eclectic vintage boutiques like The Funky Fern Emporium to Soul Sisters Depot, a soulful mix of trendy garments, unique accessories, and locally made goods. You’ll also find local art galleries, antique shops, and apothecaries tucked between cozy cafes and dog bakeries. Pop into Frog Level Brewing, Main Street Diner, or The Scotsman for a bite or a beer, or grab a coffee and a scratch-made pastry from Orchard Coffee or Kandi’s Cakes & Bake Shop. Most shops close by early evening, so go in the afternoon for a full experience and see if you don’t leave with something handcrafted.

Drive and hike the Blue Ridge Parkway

Winding through some of the highest elevations in the East, the Blue Ridge Parkway cuts directly across Haywood County. Haywood’s 46 miles are some of the most scenic stretches of the entire 469-mile route. Along the way, you’ll find panoramic overlooks, layered ridgelines, and access to epic hikes like the Art Loeb Trail, best picked up at the Black Balsam Knob trailhead where within 20 minutes of hiking through the protected Pisgah National Forest the trail opens to sweeping, above-treeline views. The Blue Ridge Parkway is especially stunning in the fall, of course, but also late spring when mountain laurel and rhododendrons line the road’s edges and visibility stretches for miles. For the best light and fewer crowds, aim for an early morning cruise and stop at Richland Balsam Overlook — the highest point on the parkway at 6,053 feet. Pack layers, even in summer, and don’t count on cell signal.

Spot elk in Cataloochee Valley

Tucked in a remote corner of Great Smoky Mountains National Park, Cataloochee Valley is one of the few places east of the Mississippi where you can see wild elk roaming free. Reintroduced here in 2001, the herd now numbers over 200, and dusk or dawn is your best bet for a close (but respectful) encounter. Even if the elk stay hidden, there are plenty of hiking trails and remnants of a 19th-century pioneer settlement to explore, including a schoolhouse, chapel, and homestead. Getting to Cataloochee Valley requires a slow, winding drive on gravel roads with spotty cell service, so download directions ahead of time and come prepared with binoculars or a zoom lens. You may even spot some of the area’s other residents: black bears, white-tailed deer, and wild turkeys.

Visit the Wheels Through Time Museum

This all-American motorcycle museum in Maggie Valley houses one of the world’s rarest collections of vintage Harley-Davidsons, Indian motorcycles, and early American cars — with nearly every vehicle still in running condition. It’s part museum, part time capsule, and part workshop where restorations happen right on the floor. Wander among decades of two-wheeled history, from century-old motorbikes to custom choppers, and even get to hear several of these vintage motorcycles purr to life. Plan at least an hour (or two if you’re into engines) and don’t skip the gift shop — it’s full of quirky, biker-friendly souvenirs. The Wheels Through Time Museum is open seasonally (usually April through November) and closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, so check hours before you go.

Wheels Through Time Museum: 62 Vintage Ln, Maggie Valley, NC 28751

Make pottery at Cold Mountain Art Collective

Located in downtown Canton, Cold Mountain Art Collective is more than a gallery — it’s a working ceramics studio and community-based creative hub where visitors can get hands-on with pottery classes and workshops, including beginner-friendly wheel-throwing sessions led by local ceramicists. It’s a relaxed, welcoming environment where you can try your hand at shaping clay, learn the basics of the craft, and leave with a deeper appreciation for the region’s very visible artistic roots. Class sizes are small, so booking ahead is recommended. Even if you’re not ready to throw a pot, the shop itself is worth a visit for handmade pieces and curated regional art from 50-plus local artists.

Cold Mountain Art Collective: 33 Adams St, Canton, NC 28716

U-pick at Ten Acre Garden

Located in Canton’s rolling farmlands, Ten Acre Garden offers classic Appalachian views and a seasonal u-pick experience that draws locals and visitors alike. In late spring, the farm’s strawberry fields open for public picking, with rows of ripe berries ready to be gathered by the bucketful. The farm also hosts casual weekend events with farm-to-oven pizzas, live music, and fresh produce for sale, making it more than just a stop but a community hangout, too. Additional crops and flowers are available throughout the summer and fall. Check Ten Acre Garden’s social media for up-to-date hours, their schedule of events, and crop availability before arriving.

Ten Acre Garden: 148 Chambers Farm Ln, Canton, NC 28716

Forage in the Smokies with Food For Adventures

If you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to eat straight from the forest, join one of Lee “Natty” Trebotich’s guided foraging adventures. Based in Asheville and currently artist-in-residence at The Swag hotel, Trebotich leads immersive hikes through trails bordering Great Smoky Mountains National Park, teaching guests how to identify wild edibles like ramps, wood sorrel, and spruce tips. On his outings from The Swag, Trebotich takes groups up to Hemphill Bald, where he lays out a thoughtfully prepared, fully foraged picnic with mountain and valley views as the backdrop. The experience is equal parts wilderness education and culinary artistry. It’s an invitation to see the landscape through a new, nourishing lens that’s entirely rooted to this part of Appalachia and its Indigenous, pioneer, and local herbal traditions. Offerings vary seasonally and can be booked through The Swag or directly via Food For Adventures.

The Swag: 2300 Swag Rd, Waynesville, NC 28785

Where to eat and drink in Haywood County

Roll Up Herbal Bar

Roll Up Herbal Bar, tucked inside Church Street Studios in Waynesville, is a mocktail and adaptogen bar created by the sober and spirited Sam Kearney. (In herbal medicine, adaptogens are natural substances that promote wellbeing.) Kearney’s ever-evolving menu of handcrafted, booze-free drinks shifts with the seasons and her own daring experimentation. In spring and summer, expect fruit-forward concoctions like Something Sweet, made with strawberry, peach, pear, and pressed coconut water. Fall and winter usher in soul-warming sips like Something Cozy (a spiced pear and blackberry cider blend) and Something Jolly (a festive mix of tart cranberry, rosemary, ginger, orange, and cinnamon, served with a dusting of red edible glitter).

Roll Up Herbal Bar: 225 Church St., Suite 201, Waynesville, NC 28786

Joey’s Pancake House

A Maggie Valley staple since 1966, Joey’s Pancake House is everything a small-town, frozen-in-time breakfast joint should be. Wagon wheel chandeliers, two-seater booths, and upturned coffee mugs on checkered plastic tablecloths set the scene for a menu packed with comfort classics like specialty pancakes, Belgian waffles, omelets, biscuits smothered in gravy, and the restaurant’s beloved hash brown casserole. Before paying your bill at the door, don’t miss the little shop tucked by the register, where you can pick up branded mugs, tees, boxed pancake mix, real maple syrup, and other take-home treats.

Joey’s Pancake House: 4309 Soco Rd., Maggie Valley, NC 28751

Switchback at Cataloochee Ranch

Situated a mile high at the recently reopened Cataloochee Ranch — now a Relais & Châteaux property in Maggie Valley — Switchback is Chef Jeb Aldrich’s take on Southern Appalachian ranch fare with a European Alpine twist. The handcrafted menu features locally sourced ingredients, like trout from Waynesville’s Sunburst Trout Farm, and barbecue-ready cuts like brisket, smoked pork butts, and BBQ chicken thighs — all raised just up the hill by Cataloochee’s resident rancher, Trace Guyer. If you can, time your visit for a Wednesday evening when Switchback hosts its weekly Cataloochee BBQ: a buffet-style feast paired with live Appalachian music and sweeping mountain views (if the signature Smoky Mountain fog hasn’t settled in, that is).

Switchback at Cataloochee Ranch: 119 Ranch Dr., Maggie Valley, NC 28751

Crown & Thistle Tea Room

Crown & Thistle Tea Room opened in late 2024 but has quickly become one of Waynesville’s most charming spots. This women-owned tea room channels the grace of a traditional British afternoon tea — tiered trays, finger sandwiches, scones with clotted cream — but in a relaxed, Southern Appalachian setting. Sisters Rebecca Bradley and Melissa Roop are behind the vision, blending Old World elegance with a warm sense of community and support for local makers (many of the pantry goods and gifts in their shop come from nearby women-owned businesses). Beyond tea service, the tea room hosts regular events like book clubs, craft nights, and live music performances, offering guests even more reasons to linger. Reservations are recommended, especially on weekends.

Crown & Thistle Tea Room: 62 Overbrook Street, Suite C, Waynesville, NC 28786

Singletree Heritage Kitchen

Singletree Heritage Kitchen opened its doors nearly three years ago, taking over what was once a centuries-old service station that also served as an art gallery. The rust-hued, weathered metal sculpture of a lone tree out front is a holdover from that chapter that’s become a symbol of the restaurant’s deep roots in the local landscape. This farm-to-table eatery in Waynesville pays homage to the land it sits on in a refreshingly unpretentious way. Head Chef Josh Weeks brings seasonal, heirloom recipes — some passed down from his grandmother — to the table, plated with the finesse of fine dining but rich with downhome flavor. Don’t miss a hand-shaken cocktail from behind the reclaimed wood bar or one of Singletree’s decadent desserts du jour.

Singletree Heritage Kitchen: 136 Depot St., #101, Waynesville, NC 28786

Where to stay in Haywood County

The Dogwood Boutique Motel

This stylishly restored 1970s motor lodge along Maggie Valley’s main thoroughfare blends Appalachian charm with modern comfort. Rooms and suites are named after local flora and come with plush beds, smart TVs, retro mini fridges, and sleek bathrooms. Guests can unwind in the shared lounge, creekside hot tub, or gym with a Peloton and yoga mats. There’s also a standalone two-bedroom bungalow with a gourmet kitchen and private fire pit for groups or families. Rates start around $89 per night.

The Dogwood Boutique Motel: 4102 Soco Rd, Maggie Valley, NC 28751

Cataloochee Ranch

Perched at 5,000 feet on the edge of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, this historic ranch turned luxury lodge offers sweeping views, rustic-luxe cabins perfect for families, and easy access to hiking and horseback riding. Recently revived by the team behind The Swag, the property now blends its iconic backcountry setting with refined design and ongoing upgrades — like a sommelier-led wine cellar, an outdoor pool, a golf simulator, and an art studio with pottery wheels — alongside elevated farm-to-table dining. It’s ideal for travelers seeking fresh air and front-porch serenity without giving up comfort. Rates start around $650 per night.

Cataloochee Ranch: 119 Ranch Dr, Maggie Valley, NC 28751

The Swag

Sister property to Cataloochee Ranch, The Swag is an all-inclusive mountaintop retreat known for its exceptional hospitality, gourmet meals, and private hiking trails. Tucked at the edge of the Smokies, it offers a more secluded, luxury-forward experience, with wood-burning fireplaces, outdoor soaking tubs, and views that stretch for miles. It’s perfect for couples or solo travelers looking to truly unplug and recharge. Rates start around $900 per night (all-inclusive).

The Swag: 2300 Swag Rd, Waynesville, NC 28785

Getting to and around Haywood County

The closest major airport to Haywood County is Asheville Regional Airport (AVL), about 40 minutes to an hour away by car depending on where you’re staying (Waynesville, Maggie Valley, or Canton). From there, you’ll want to rent a car as public transit is limited, rideshare services like Uber and Lyft are unreliable, and much of the charm of this region lies in the drives. If you’re coming from farther afield, Charlotte Douglas International Airport (CLT) is about a 2.5-hour drive. You can also reach Haywood County via the Blue Ridge Parkway for one of the most beautiful arrivals to this region.

Haywood County isn’t walkable in the traditional city sense, but each town (especially Waynesville and Canton) is easy to explore on foot once you’re there. That said, a car is essential for getting between towns, into the national parks, and to hidden gems like Cataloochee Valley or Ten Acre Garden. Parking is easy and free almost everywhere.